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Easy maintenance tips from the
Good Sam Club Continued Service Plan
1.  A no cost way to keep the sewer smell out of your RV, put the plugs in your sink, lavatory and bathtub while traveling.

2.  To view your dipstick's oil level easier, take a metal file and make two 1/8" V-shape notches into the edge - one at the full mark, another at the add mark.

3.  If you change the oil in your RV or tow vehicle yourself, fill your oil filter before installing it, your engine will love you for it.

4.  One very simple and effective way to clean and maintain your holding tanks is to prefill the tanks with a solution of fresh water and some chemicals prior to leaving for a destination that you know will have full hookups. The mixture will slosh around and loosen any solids during the trip; then it can be dumped upon arrival.

5.  Don't throw away your empty butane lighter just because it's out of fuel. The electronic spark lighters with the extended tip are ideal for lighting the propane stove burners aboard most RVs.

6.  To avoid stripping screws by as much as 50% when working on your RV, buy some Valve-grinding compound and dip the screwdriver tip in it before getting busy. One small tube will last you a lifetime as well as a few less gray hairs from the frustration.

7.  To avoid having to empty the food out of your freezer before defrosting, try turning your freezer down to the lowest level before bed. In the morning the ice should fall off and defrost enough so all you will have to do is wipe up the moisture with a dry towel. Then turn your freezer back up to its normal level.

RV Tire Safety
Tire Safety


Tire tread separations took center stage in 2000 when the Firestone / Ford debacle surfaced.  Investigations into this tragedy led to findings that all of the recalled tires met federal safety standards, which were originally written decades ago when radial tires were still a rarity.  Following the recalls of millions of defective tires, Congress passed the TREAD Act, which required the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) to promulgate new regulations in order to prevent another widespread tragedy.


In addition to tread separation defects, one of the areas of tire safety that is a particular interest to SRS is "aged" tire failures (see below).


Tire Aging


June 2, 2008 NHTSA Issues Consumer Advisory


SRS efforts lead to NHTSA Consumer Advisory warning that aged tires, regardless of tread, are subject to greater stress increasing the likelihood of catastrophic failure.  SRS has called on the agency to issue an advisory since 2004.  “While this doesn’t solve the tire aging problem, it is a significant step toward improving information available to consumers” said Sean Kane, president of SRS.


As of June 2, 2008 SRS has documented 159 incidents in which tires older than six years experienced tread / belt separations—most resulting in loss-of-control crashes. These incidents were the cause of 128 fatalities and 168 injuries. We have also included an additional 10 cases involving tires older than five years at the time of failure (half of which were more than five-and-a-half years old at the time of failure). These 10 incidents account for an additional 14 fatalities and 24 injuries.  This list represents incidents that SRS has identified primarily through a survey of litigation, which is one of the only publicly available sources of these incidents.


SRS June 2, 2008 Submission to NHTSA Tire Aging Docket

SRS December 20, 2006 Submission to NHTSA Tire Aging Docket

SRS September 28, 2006 Submission to NHTSA Tire Aging Docket (Statistical analysis of the agency’s “Phoenix Tire Dataset”)

SRS May 25, 2005 Submission to NHTSA Tire Aging Docket

SRS November 5, 2004 Submission to NHTSA Tire Aging Docket



Tires:  Aging Dangerously
Copyright Ó Safety Research & Strategies, 2006


Tires, like any other rubber product, have a limited service life regardless of tread depth and use.  The dangers of "aged" tires is a little known problem outside of the industry and one that is likely the cause of a significant number of tread separation problems.  "Aged" tires are often unsuspectingly put into service after having served as a spare, stored in garages or warehouses, or simply used on a vehicle that is infrequently driven.  In many instances these tires show no visible sign of deterioration, and absent any visible indicators, tires with adequate tread depth are likely to be put into service regardless of age.


Tire age can be determined through decoding of the required DOT number molded into the side of a tire; however, the DOT date coding is consumer unfriendly and confusing.  [Decoding the DOT Number]


Following the Ford/Firestone tire investigations in 2000 the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) began examining tire aging as a factor in tread belt separations and proposed a tire aging test in 2002 [Docket 2000-8011-19].  However, overwhelming industry opposition and the lack of an agreed upon aging standard led NHTSA hold further rulemaking and to begin additional research [June 26, 2003 Final Rule, Docket 03-15400-1].  As a result the agency is currently testing tires to discern possible test protocols that would ensure tires do not fail catastrophically before they wear out.  This process is still several years from fruition.  Following NHTSA's decision to commence additional research in 2003, SRS president Sean Kane, (formerly with Strategic Safety, LLC) began documenting a trend of catastrophic tire failures in the U.S. in which the tires were six years old or older.  Kane also found important evidence that tire manufacturers have internal recommendations related to tire aging that were either never disclosed publicly.  A summary of these findings along with a recommendation that NHTSA consider a tire expiration date requirement was submitted to the agency on September 17, 2003 [Docket 15400-12].   


One of the most important documents disclosed to NHTSA regarding the industry knowledge of tire aging is the British Rubber Manufacturers Association (BRMA), which consists of the same tire manufacturers who are present in the U.S. market, recommended practice dated June 5, 2001. The BRMA's recommended practice on tire aging states


"BRMA members strongly recommend that unused tyres should not be put into service if they are over 6 years old and that all tyres should be replaced 10 years from the date of their manufacture."


It also notes that environmental conditions like exposure to sunlight and coastal climates, as well as poor storage and infrequent use accelerate the aging process.


"In ideal conditions, a tyre may have a life expectancy that exceeds 10 years from its date of manufacture.  However such conditions are rare."


The BRMA document goes on to say that aging may be identified by small cracks in the tire sidewall, however,


"'[a]geing' may not exhibit any external indications and, since there is no non destructive test to assess the serviceability of a tyre, even an inspection carried out by a tyre expert may not reveal the extent of any deterioration."


Further, Kane's comments to NHTSA disclosed little-known warnings in the owner's manuals of German vehicles (i.e., Mercedes, BMW, Audi, VW) and Toyota that tires older than six years posed dangers.  This information, combined with a number of other technical documents provide clear evidence that the tire and vehicle manufacturers are aware of, and likely in the possession of important data and testing upon which these obscure findings were based.  However, none of this information was disclosed to NHTSA in response to its request for comments about tire aging.


As a result of our continued research into tire aging, SRS petitioned NHTSA on November 5, 2004 requesting the agency take three important interim steps to address the tire age problem.  We requested (1) a Consumer Advisory alerting the public to the hazards, (2) NHTSA request specific information from the tire and vehicle manufacturers that will help with further evaluation of the problem, and (3) petitioned to require a date of manufacture molded in both sides of the tire in a non-coded fashion.


SRS is continuing to document the scope and magnitude of the tire aging problem as well as its investigation into what is known and when it was known about this danger.



Other Tire Aging Developments:


Ford Motor Company added a 6-year tire replacement recommendation, regardless of tread wear, to its website and all 2006 owner’s manuals.  DaimlerChrysler acknowledged it too will add a 6-year replacement recommendation.


In response SRS has requested Ford, DaimlerChrysler, and the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers support a NHTSA-issued Consumer Advisory in order to reach a wider audience.


SRS Letter to Ford

SRS Letter to DaimlerChrysler

SRS Letter to the Alliance




Tire Recalls and Tire Safety: The RFID Solution

November 1, 2007


The current tire recall system designed to alert and capture defective models is ineffective and outmoded.  Despite many technological advances, consumers trying to identify a defective tire still rely on a 38-year-old recall system that rarely averages more than a 20 percent return rate, leaving millions of potentially deadly tires on consumers’ vehicles.   


Other important tire safety issues ranging from aging to counterfeiting can benefit from an improved identification system.  Radio Frequency Identification tags offers a solution.  


SRS ask NHTSA to Issue Consumer Advisory
for Defective Chinese Light Truck Tire


June 25, 2007:  Safety Research & Strategies and attorney Jeffrey Killino has urged the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to issue a Consumer Advisory for the following steel-belted radial light truck tires manufactured by Hangzhou Zhongce Rubber Co., Ltd, sold under the names Westlake, Telluride, Compass and YKS in the following sizes:


? LT235/75R-15

? LT225/75R-16

? LT235/85R-16

? LT245/75R-16

? LT265/75R-16

? LT31X10.5R-15



According to Foreign Tire Sales, tires manufactured by Hangzhou were also sold by the following distributors:


? Foreign Tire Sales, Union New Jersey

? Tireco, Compton, California

? Strategic Import Supply, Wayzata Minnesota

? Omni United USA, Inc., Jacksonville Florida

? Orteck International, Inc., Gaithersburg, Maryland

? K&D Tire Wholesalers LLC, Carlsbad, California

? Robinson Tire, Laurel Mississippi


Some of these tires were manufactured without the gum strips, a key safety feature to preserve the integrity of the belts. The defect came to light after Foreign Tire Sales appealed to NHTSA for aid in recalling an estimated 450,000 light truck tires after the company allegedly learned that the manufacturer, the Hangzhou Zhongce Rubber Company, had left the gum strips out of the tire. But the number of defective tires could be much higher, FTS told NHTSA, because Hangzhou has refused to specifically identify by Tire Identification Number, which tires may be defective. FTS has said that it can not conduct a recall because it didn’t have the financial resources to collect replace and


Foreign Tire Sales Defect and Noncompliance Report

SRS / Jeffrey Killino June 25, 2007 Letter to NHTSA Requesting a Consumer Advisory
If your XC70 tires are older than 6 years old, they should be replaced. They're essentially ticking time bombs if they are.

Story here: http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

How to check? (Source: Tire Rack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=11)

Determining the Age of a Tire

When it comes to determining the age of a tire, it is easy to identify when a tire was manufactured by reading its Tire Identification Code (serial number). Unlike vehicle identification numbers (VINs) and the serial numbers used on many other consumer goods (which identify one specific item), Tire Identification Codes are really batch codes that identify which week and year the tire was produced.

The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Code be a combination of eleven or twelve letters and numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, manufacturer's code, and week and year the tire was manufactured.

Tires Manufactured Since 2000

Today, the week and year the tire was manufactured is contained in the last four digits of the serial number, with the 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.

Examples of tires manufactured since 2000 with this Tire Identification Code format:
XXXXXXXX 0608
XXXXXXXX 0600 06 - Manufactured during the 06th week of the year
XXXXXXXX 0608 08 - Manufactured during 2008

And
XXXXXXXX 0600
XXXXXXXX 0608 06 - Manufactured during the 06th week of the year
XXXXXXXX 0600 00 - Manufactured during 2000


While the entire Tire Identification Code is required to be branded onto one sidewall of every tire, current rules also require the first digits of the Tire Identification Code (everything but the week and year) must also be branded onto the opposite sidewall. Therefore, it is possible to see a Tire Identification Code that appears incomplete and requires looking at the other sidewall to find the entire Tire Identification Code (the use of a partial Tire Identification Code on the one sidewall reduces the risk of injury to the mold technician that would have to install the weekly date code on the top sidewall portion of a hot tire mold).

Tires Manufactured Before 2000

The Tire Identification Code for tires produced prior to 2000 was based on the assumption that no tire would be in service for ten years. They were required to provided the same information, with the week and year the tire was built contained in the last three digits. The 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceded a single digit used to identify the year.

For example, if the Tire Identification Code on a tire reads:
XXXXXXXX 0680
XXXXXXXX 0600 06 - Manufactured during the 06th week of the year
XXXXXXXX 0680 8 - Manufactured during the 8th year of the decade

While the previous serial number format identified that a tire was built in the 8th year of a decade, there was no universal identifier that confirmed which decade (tires produced in the 1990s may have a small triangle following the Tire Identification Code to identify the decade). The Tire Identification Code format used since 2000 accurately confirms the year.

And finally, hold on to your sales receipts. Most tire manufacturer's warranties cover their tires for four years from the date of purchase, or five years from the week the tires were manufactured. So if you purchase new tires that were manufactured exactly two years ago they will be covered for a total of six years (four years from the date of purchase) as long as you have your receipt. If you lose your receipt, your tires' warranty coverage will end five years from week the tire was produced (resulting in the tire manufacturer's warranty coverage ending only three years from the date of purchase in this example).

Examples of dates on tires:



RV Generators

Onan has recentley prepared a Owners Handbook that covers most of their model line. It contains 35 pages of informative information.  Go to http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/rv/f-1123.pdf   to download the publication.

Tire Pressure Monitoring

One of the common failures of an RV is for one of the rear dual tires loosing pressure.  Without warning of this pressure loss the remaining tire of the duel set will soon fail.  Another problem for RV owners who tow a vehicle is to get a flat tire in the towed vehicle..  There are tire pressure monitoring systems on the market that will alert the driver when a tire on either vehicle fails.  http://www.tiresentry.com/
RV Internet Access

BlackBerry is one of the latest wireless E-Mail and Internet options for RV travelers.
Check out Sprint BlackBerry mobil service;
Check out Cingular  BlackBerry mobil  service;



RV internet access is of growing importance. Many fulltimers want fulltime access, and even part-time RVers want to be online and send email. Technological advances provide more choices for RVer internet access. Here are some of the options.
Dial-Up, DSL, Cable RV Internet Access
The most basic approach to RV internet access is to just plug in to a dial-up modem at a campground. Many campgrounds offer at least one connection in their parks. The main disadvantages of this method are slow speeds and having to trek to the campground office or wherever the connection is located.

This often also means waiting your turn, or having to limit your time to give another camper their turn. In the past, this was about the only way to get RV internet access, but in the current web-based world, it does not meet the needs of most RVers.

Another option is to use internet access available at local libraries or other public places. This is a feasible solution for short RV trips, or as a back-up plan if you have no other means of getting connected.

Sometimes campgrounds offer phone or cable connections for RV internet access at the individual sites. Usually the visiting RVer needs to activate these connections by calling the phone or cable company. For the RVer who is going to be staying awhile, this can be a good means of RV internet access - often you can get high speed broadband cable or DSL connections. But for the visitor on the move who only spends a few days or weeks in a given spot, this is usually not a viable means for internet access on the road.

WiFi RV Internet Access
Wi-Fi is a big improvement for getting RV internet access. A computer with an 802.11 (Wi-Fi) card or adapter should get you online in the comfort of your own RV. More and more parks are installing WiFi (Wireless Fidelity) networks. The RVer connects to the park's wireless "hotspot", much like the hotspots now found in many locations across the country - in airports, truck stops, coffee shops like Starbucks, convenience stores, restaurants and so on. WiFi dataspeeds are much improved over dial-up.

The speed and range of the reach will vary depending on the specific WiFi network and configuration at a given park. We have been fortunate to find some very fast access, but have also used WiFI connections that are just so-so. Also be aware if a park does offer WiFi RV internet access - you may not be able to access the network from all sites in the campground, so ask when you make the reservation or check in.

When you get to your park be sure to ask if they charge for WiFi RV internet access. Some RV parks offer it free or charge a fee, or they offer RV internet access for a fee through a WiFI provider. Check to see if they offer hourly, daily, weekly, monthly and/or seasonal rates.

Most laptop computers come equipped with 802.11b/g capability suitable for RV internet access. There are currently three 802.11 standards: 802.11a, b and g. Each was developed to improve speed, number of users supported, or reception.

    * 802.11a is more expensive and popular in a business environment because of its high connection speeds up to 54Mbps, support of multiple users and is not affected by electrical emanation from appliances, but it has a trade off in range and ability to penetrate walls.
    * 802.b was more popular in home applications because of lower costs and greater range, however the tradeoffs are fewer users can be supported, speed is limited to about 11Mbps, and sometimes appliances can interfere with the signal.
    * 802.11g is the latest improvement and is backward compatible with 802.11b and becoming more popular for home applications. 802.11g matches the 54Mbps speed of 802.11a, can support more users than 802.11b, still has the range and wall penetration of 802.11b, however it must still contend with the same electrical interferences as 802.11b.

We have been using the 802.11b/g (Wi-Fi) technology for RV internet access for over 3 years with no apparent problems from appliance interference.

Wireless (Cellular ) RV Internet Access
Fulltimers or "most-timers" are seeking a 24/7 internet access connection (or as close to 24/7 as they can get). They want RV internet access at any park. They want access when they are boondocking or in remote locations. They need to send email, do their online banking, look up directions and do the usual web browsing. Ideally, they would even like to have RV internet access while going down the road.

One way to go is to use a cell phone and/or wireless provider for internet access. Wireless providers include companies like Verizon, Cingular/AT&T, Sprint, T-Mobile, Nextel, etc.

    * In its simplest form, you use the cell phone, BlackBerry,  PDA (Personal Digital Assistants) or integrated PDA/cell phone display screen to retrieve email and web browsing. Internet access is through the wireless provider, using one of their various monthly plans. The array of features for smart phones and other portable devices grows daily. There are different sizes and designs for displays, and different types of graphic or text-based browser options. Auxiliary keyboards and other accessories make these devices easier to use on their own or as an adjunct to a more permanent PC.
    * The cell phone may also be used as a modem for RV internet access. In this arrangement, the computer is connected to the cell phone via a USB cable, infrared or Bluetooth, and the cell phone then connects through the wireless provider to the internet. This mode of operation provides the larger screen and functionality of the computer vs. the cell phone/PDA display.

      One limitation of this method is that you usually can't use your phone as a modem and a telephone at the same time. Another consideration is how your data usage is going to be billed. You may rack up minutes if your online usage is not during unlimited night and weekend periods. A good forum on this type of RV internet access is InternetByCellPhone. It has ongoing discussion of this subject, including some helpful Sprint and Verizon tutorials.

    * A third option is to use a wireless networking card ("air card") directly in the computer and connect via the wireless provider. Instead of connecting computer to cell phone, the aircard provides the connectivity to the cell tower for your RV internet access.

      Most of the providers have a plan that supports these cards, with options for the amount of data usage. These are generally higher speed connections and in some major metropolitan areas, broadband may be offered. Cingular, Verizon and Sprint have an unlimited plan for about $60-$80/month. T-Mobile has an unlimited plan for $30/month, albeit with narrower geographic coverage and lower speeds.

      Note that the various wireless providers often have separate voice and data coverage maps - so read the fine print as you browse the wireless provider websites. You can often obtain a PC card at a discount when signing up for a data plan.

There is a wide range of phones, plans and wireless technologies (CDMA, GSM, GPRS, HSCSD, EDGE, etc.). For most of us, there is no pleasure in sorting through the various options. It is a matter of taking the time to find a phone and plan that will meet your voice and data needs, as well as your travel plans. If you are in the market for a new phone, tri-mode phones are usually recommended.

The advantages of wireless internet access - it is compact and may get you a connection going down the road. You probably can't count on coverage everywhere, but you will have internet access in an increasing number of locations. Speeds for connecting to the internet are bound to improve as technology evolves. A mix of WiFi where available and wireless connections elsewhere may give you adequate RV internet access.

And something relatively new for boosting the connection via wireless providers is Internet In Motion.

The Internet In Motion system uses the Sprint and Verizon cellular network to stay connected; even while traveling down the road. It uses a powerful cellular router and high gain antenna, and is compatible with Windows, Macintosh, Linux, Palm or Pocket PC operating systems. This provides a faster connection than an Air card that can be used while in motion.

Download E-Book all about RV Internet Access!

Satellite RV Internet Access

The other main way to have RV internet access almost 24/7 is the use of a personal satellite system - mounted roof top or as a separate auxiliary unit. These give you RV internet access when you are stopped.

These are not cheap, although prices are trending in the right direction. They are not the same thing as the satellite units used by many RVers for TV (although once you buy one of the Data/Internet Satellite systems, you can usually add hardware to accommodate TV)

There are two primary satellite solutions (Direcway and Starband),and two ways to mount them - either automatic mount (meaning on the roof) or manual mount (separate tripod arrangement). They are sold through a variety of dealers and value-added resellers (VARs).

Automatic roof-mounted: Major manufacturers for the automatic-mount products include MotoSAT's Datastorm, DTI DirecStar, Ground Control and C-Com's iNetVu.

MotoSAT's DataStorm system is two-way satellite transmission. With the introduction of the D-2 Controller and DW7000 modems, the DataStorm will work with most computers. Prices, with installation, are in the range of $5000 - $5500. There is a monthly charge of $99.00 for unlimited access.

C-Com's iNetVu offers different systems (iNetVu 740 - 1200) to serve a variety of RV personal and business applications.

DataBahn has made reference to their potential TruPut 2-way mobile satellite offer; more to follow on RV applications. Preliminary product descriptions tout an integrated solution that includes a GPS portal, VoIP phone lines, video conferencing, and is TVoIP ready.

On September 20, 2005. DataTech announced that its new DirecStar auto-pointing and deploying mounting system has been certified by Hughes Network Systems, LLC (HNS), for use with HNS' DIRECWAY® broadband satellite system.

KVH once offered an RV internet access system via satellite in North America. The KVH website states that the TracNet product is still available in Europe. In North America, the TracNet line now focuses on upcoming in-motion, two-way access to MSN TV service, including web browsing and other media applications. High-speed data connections are to be provided by EVDO service.

Manually-mounted units: These use a tripod type of arrangement. Various vendors sell these and have their proprietary method for the set-up and dish-pointing functions. Prices from these companies run from about $1300 to $1700, and higher for packages with different types of satellite aiming devices. Monthly plans run from $59 and up.

Cheaper options might be found by buying the equipment and then becoming trained/certified to do the installation and set-up on your own.

A few companies that provide tripod equipment and/or automatic roof top systems:

www.rvnetworking.com
www.dustyfoot.com
www.maxwellsatellite.com (Referral Number NC030)
RV internet access from RV-Sat-Link
www.internetanywhere.us
www.3icommunications.com (Ontario, Canada)

Like most things, the choice between manual and automatic mounted arrangements is one of trade-offs. Automatic mounts are easier to deploy - advertised to be a matter of minutes. The manual mounts need to be set up and disassembled. They need to be transported, and the equipment is not small.

A view of the southern sky is required for this RV internet access. A tripod version might be more flexible, since it can be positioned within sight of the signal. With a roof-mounted system, you won't always be able to shift the RV position to avoid trees.

And of course there is the price difference. As you make decisions about which way to go, think through how often you will need and use your RV internet access.

Whatever your means of connection for internet access on the road, take necessary security precautions to protect your computer and your personal information.





http://www.groundcontrol.com/datastorm/index.html

http://eduscapes.com/mm/motosat/

http://www.highspeedsat.com/rvsinstalls.htm

http://www.your-rv-lifestyle.com/RV-internet-access.html




Important features for a GPS to be used for Automobile Navigation:
Revised 20 November 2006 by Joe Mehaffey
What features are important for a particular use are a very personal thing. And.. The features needed for automobile navigation use are a bit different from those needed for hiking navigation use.  Below are my "essential automotive navigation feature list" of GPS receiver features.
(I omitted features that are present in ALL receivers.)
There are TWO types of GPS units for Car Navigation these days.  First there are what I refer to as the TRUE CAR NAVIGATORS.  These typically have large bright screens suitable for comfortable viewing at arms length on your car's dashboard. They also provide VOICE GUIDANCE which I find I depend on more and more as I gain familiarity with GPS Car Navigation.  The second models are what I refer to as HANDHELD CAR NAVIGATORS.  These last models typically have a smaller screen, are battery or 12vdc powered, and they do NOT have voice guidance.  Let us first examine the TRUE CAR NAVIGATORS.
First, lets think a bit about the FEATURES you will need in a GPS CAR NAVIGATOR.  (Units we like the most are in RED.
1) Address to address Routing: All listed units now have this feature. In the following list, we omit manufacturing discontinued models.  The automatic car navigation feature is now present in low and medium priced Garmin (such as all variants of GPS-60Cx, GPS76Cx, , StreetPilot (*) 2720/2820/7200/7500,c310/c320/c330/c510/c550 i2/i3/i5(*), GPS276C, GPS295, iQue(*), Quest(*), and NuVi(*) ) and the Magellan RoadMate 300/360/500/700/760/800/860 (*)/6000T/3000T/3050T/ 2000/2200, Sportrak Pro, GOLD and PLATINUM models. The Cobra NavOne 4500, TomTom icn750, and Lowrance iWay 500/350(*) also have these features.  HANDHELD Models all  require optional at extra cost mapping software for car navigation.  The above models typically cost from $300 to about $1200 depending on model.  Generally, more expensive units have more features, better operation, larger screens, brighter screens than the less expensive models.  Note:  While all OEM car navigators offer Address-to-Address routing, OEM Car Navigators typically are "reduced feature" models so as to be extremely simple to use.  Most aftermarket units actually work better and have more functions than OEM models which cost much more.  
Handheld Models:  Garmin's  G60Cx/S, G76Cx/S, Vista/Legend (COLOR only) and the Magellan Meridian and Sportrak models all have optional address-to-address routing, but with "beep" prompting and no voice prompts.   
2)Units providing VOICE PROMPTS for turns and guidance include: Garmin StreetPilot (all models), Quest, Magellan RoadMate (all models),  , TomTom 750, Cobra NavOne, Lowrance iWay (all) and many OEM automobile navigation systems.    Delorme StreetAtlas 2006 and the Garmin nRoute system have good  and economical implementations of address-to-address routing and can be used stand alone at reasonable cost IF you already have a laptop computer.  
3) Built in road Maps: Built in and detailed road map displays of your area of interest are an essential feature of a good Automobile GPS receiver.
4) Route capability: Automatic Destination Routing is a standard feature on any good (modern) Car Navigator GPS.
5) Waypoints: Some Car Navigators use ONLY street addresses, road intersections, Points of Interest, Restaurants and such. This is a pretty good minimum requirement.  All Garmin models (except the SP2720) offer "mark waypoint" capability for locations and the ability to "point" to a desired destination on a map. We like this feature, but it is not essential.
6) Datums:   Many (if not all now) Automobile Car Navigators have only WGS-84 datum. (-and they do not need anything else when they are loaded with ref datum WGS-84 maps.)
7) Mounting:  Make sure the unit you select is capable of being mounted neatly and securely in/on your vehicle.  Some mounts are flimsy, springy, and others are much more secure and stable.  Check carefully.
8) Turn Here:  Make sure the unit gives you the signal you want for a "next turn". The best units have voice and visual prompts for turns.
9) 12 channel parallel receiver system: Needed for best reception in difficult terrain and tree cover. A 14 (and up) channel system is a good marketing tool, but brings little if any additional capability in real life operation.
9) Dead Reckoning: Most of us do not drive often in high rise central city areas. If you do,  you will want to consider units with a built in Gyro capability as the best GPS will loose lock in dense high rise areas. Garmin's SP2650/2660 and the VDO Dayton are examples of these.
10) Maps:  Make sure that the unit you select has user uploadable maps (or maps on its built in CDROM, CF card, MiniHD, or other memory) for the area you need. Also check the UPDATE COST and AVAILABILITY of map updates.  
11) TrackBack and other "standard" handheld hiking GPS features are not generally available in Car Navigator units. When you think about it, "tracking back" the same way you came can be hazardous in a car navigator! (One way streets)  These units are designed to generate a new route for you on each new destination selected.
12) The OEM car navigators are "engineered into the dash", look great and perform the basic car guidance functions pretty reliably.  However, these OEM units generally cost much more and offer inferior features and performance as compared with the Garmin StreetPilot and Magellan RoadMate units and other aftermarket equipment.  We have had a number of reports of users unable to obtain map updates for OEM car navigation systems. Others have complained of the high cost of map updates for the OEM installed systems.  We suggest you try and obtain a written guarantee of map updates for 5 years as a condition of buying an OEM car navigator.  We suggest a discussion of the price of map updates is a good idea as well.
13) A very few GPS units have implemented a solution to "the traveling salesman problem".  Here you can input a series of addresses and the GPS will take you on "a" lowest time/distance route between the several destination.  The Garmin StreetPilot 2720 and 2820 and are current examples of units with this capability.
Useful but not essential features:
1) An external amplified antenna can be useful to allow full sky view and maximum position accuracy for a GPS used in your car. BUT:  Most modern GPS receivers work OK without one. Try without before you buy. If you think you might NEED this feature later, make sure to buy a unit with external antenna port.
2) Screen: A larger Screen than available on handhelds is a nice option.  We think the Garmin i2/i3/i5/and Quest models are too small for comfortable routine automobile use.  Color Screens are useful for getting more map information from the unit "in a glance". Some models have "transreflective" screens and these models do better in bright sunlight than other screen types.
3) We think that "almost" everyone will want at least 2000 megs of map memory in a car navigator unless it will never be used on long trips.  Units with hard drives (as opposed to Flash memory) are almost always much slower at screen redraw. We recommend units with either built in Flash RAM or with a CF/SD/SDmini or similar memory card.  As examples: Sixty-four megs will hold the map of California or New York. It takes about 1200 MegaBytes to hold detailed road maps of the entire USA. 1450 Megabytes for Garmin's 2610 for all USA and (available) Canada maps.
Selecting a TRUE CAR NAVIGATOR
Which GPS Car Navigator to buy can be a daunting task.  There are a wide variety to choose from and the prices range from maybe US$400 to $4000.  You can buy them already installed in cars or as an aftermarket item.  Let me get my bias toward the OEM models out in the open here.  Generally, I think OEM GPS car navigators are a) overly expensive,  b) limited in features,  c) very easy to use,  d) have the great "built in" look that many prefer and e) (worst of all) map updates may be rare, non-existent or unreasonably expensive, and f) when you want to take it with you on a trip, it is not possible.  It is for some of these reasons that Jack and Joe are partial to "aftermarket" GPS versions.  

But WHICH aftermarket version?  Well,  we are going to try and help you with that decision here.  Nothing is black and white about buying a GPS, same as your decision on which car to buy. There are a lot of options.  Jack and I concentrate on functionality,  flexibility, usability and how well the units generate routes and guide you on your way.  Others may be just as interested in the cosmetics or "look" of the unit in their car which (in our analysis) is not considered at all.  In the study below, we are not giving any advantage to either internal battery operated or (only) cigar lighter plug powered units.  Car Navigators are generally NOT intended for hiking, marine or geocaching use, though a very few do have some limited ability in this area.  We will mention any such limited hiking ability if appropriate.

IMPORTANT FEATURE QUESTIONS FOR YOUR "TRUE CAR NAVIGATOR" SELECTION

1) Is it reasonably easy and intuitive to input an address, select a Point of Interest (POI) such as a restaurant, hospital, garage or other destination?
2) Is the route generated by the unit "reasonable" and without major "quirks" and failures to direct you properly? We think this feature is all important in selecting a unit.
3) Does the unit have a sufficiently large and easy to read screen in all ambient light conditions you will encounter?  This feature is extremely important and in a relatively dark store (compared with bright sunlight) you can choose a unit that is almost not readable on the dash of your car in bright sunlight.  Without a reasonably easy to read screen under all light conditions, the utility of the instrument will be limited.  Click HERE for some comparitive samples.
4) Is the mount provided with the system stable, easy to use, easy to adjust, and secure under ordinary driving conditions?  
5) Is the visible route guidance on the screen easy to interpret, does the map show clearly where you are, and does it clearly show the streets in your immediate area so you can judge your actual position on the route.  
6) Are the maps fully installed when you get the unit?  If not, how easy/difficult is it to add or change maps when you drive to a different area?  If you are able to load wide area maps into the unit does the Car Navigator automatically tie these different areas together or do you have to manually select a new map section as you move from one region to another?
7) What is the Quality and Accuracy of the maps provided?  How often are they updated and at what price?  Is there a mechanism to input changes to a GPS vendor and have maps updated in future updates?
8)  Can I "mark" a location where I am and have the GPS keep up with such "waypoints" so I can return there later without again inputting an address? Can I NAME these locations with my own name?  Some costly units do not have the ability to MARK a current location so you can easily go to it later.  
9) Are there symbols available to designate WHAT a particular location is? (home, store, restaurant, hospital, etc.)
10)  Am I able to make an external list of my waypoints and upload them to the Car Navigator?

The following are our comments on some of the more popular "aftermarket" car navigators available today.  These are not all alike and a few have operational problems that we consider pretty severe.   These are NOT necessarily in order of overall quality or desirability!  We leave that selection for you!  We are limiting our comments here to units we have reviewed and/or used extensively in the last 18 months.  Units we have reviewed and our "very" brief comments follow.  Units highlighted in RED are the units with our highest recommendation for overall performance and usability.  The current production models that we have tested include: Garmin   GPS-60Cx, GPS76Cx, , StreetPilot (*) 2720/2820/7200/7500,c310/c320/c330/c510/c550 i2/i3/i5(*), GPS276C, GPS295, iQue(*), Quest(*), and NuVi(*) ) and the Magellan RoadMate 300/360/500/700/760/800/860 (*)/6000T/3000T/3050T/ 2000/2200, Sportrak Pro, GOLD and PLATINUM models. The Cobra NavOne 4500, TomTom icn750, and Lowrance iWay 500/350(*)The highlighed models offer superior screen readability in all lighting conditions,  have frequently updated maps,  are relatively easy to use but with about all of the features anyone would want in a car navigator.  Garmin and Magellan models use NavTeq maps which are the best available today and they are updated about every 18 months or so. Generally all listed models are reasonably compact, reasonably lightweight and easy to transport on a trip. NuVi and Quest are reasonably shirt pocket sized.  Most important of all is a unit's ability to get reasonably optimum routes almost all the time.  The  later Garmin and Magellan units use the SiRF III GPS receiver which provides excellent receiver performance in most conditions without and external antenna.   These listed models are  not perfect, but we think they offer (imperfect but generally very good) maps and routing throughout.  You can read a detailed review of most of these models in the FEATURES section of our website at http://gpsinformation.net

1) Garmin StreetPilot 2610/20/50/60>  Though obsolete now, we consider these models the overall "performance standard" for today's GPS car navigators in the area of consistently generating superior routes from A to B. We also think that the SP26x0 models have a superior feature set to any we have used including OEM models.  Many of the later Garmin/Magellan/iWay/NavMan models DO have lots of fancy new MP3/BlueTooth/TalkingBook, and other neat features but, in our testing, none is better at generating an accurate route than the old SP26x0 units.  However, most units come pretty close unless we note otherwise.
2) Magellan RoadMate 300/360/500/700/760/800/860 (*)/6000T/3000T/3050T/ 2000/2200>  These models are right up there with the Garmin StreetPilot units in capabilities.  Both Garmin and Magellan use NavTeq road maps which we think are the best available for the USA.  The RM series is designed to have  a simplified feature set and VERY easy to master user interface and is a bit more direct at address input than most.  However, there are some useful navigation and GUI features missing that are available in other units.  If you want a GPS car navigator for a "non-technical user", this is a good unit to consider.
3) Garmin SP2720/SP2820/SP7200/SP7500/c320/c330/c340/i2/i3/i5/NuVi 350/360/660/Quest>  These units are Garmin's entry in the "simplified and cheaper" GPS market.  Some of these units have lower screen visibility in some light conditions than desirable,  and on rare occasion has a little trouble routing properly but all it all, they work pretty well and are not a bad unit for the money.  The less than adequate display brightness is the c320/c330/c340 unit's major drawback.  See our review of the screen readability of major models HERE   See Legend below for symbol meaning:  
4) Lowrance iWay 500/350>  The iWay 350 has a bit smaller screen but the routing is vastly improved over that in the iWay 500 unit we reviewed.   has perhaps the brightest and best looking display of the lot.  It also has a built in MP3 player which we tried out and it seemed to work fine.  The feature mix is generally good including a HD with USA/Canada NavTeq road maps included. However, it has some routing quirks that we feel are unacceptable for car navigators today.  Even when driving on the freeway between Atlanta and Charlotte, the iWay repeatedly took us off the freeway, onto a country road for awhile and then put us back on the same freeway a few miles up the road. Sometimes it would just take us up the ramp, make us turn right or left and drive us a mile up the road and tell us to make a U-turn and get back on the freeway we had just exited.  This is not good.   Unfortunately, the unit's propensity to generate strange and out of the way routes cause us to rate this unit NOT ACCEPTABLE.  However, were Lowrance to provide fixes to the router software, we would probably rate this unit up with the SP2620 and RoadMate 700 in overall capability.  Lowrance tells us that they are aware of this problem but have no immediate plans (as of May 2005) to provide a corrective update.
5) The Cobra NavOne 3000/4500> We will shortly have a review posted for the NavOne 4500.  The NavOne 4500 is a vast improvement over the 3000 model.  It gives generally consistent routing results and has a very capable feature set and a very extensive and generally accurate POI data set.  Our first unit of the 4500 had a sample defect that "infrequently" would cause user data loss when power was disconnected or the power cable developed an intermittant connection at the cigar lighter.    This problem is not evidenced in the second unit we received and Cobra appears to have corrected this problem in later production.  The maps are of generally high quality and the route generation in the 4500 is generally good with some exceptions as noted in the review.  It has a bright and very readable display in all light conditions.  In the NavOne 3000 however, the rural area maps are quite out of date as of May 2005.  City maps in the Atlanta Metro region by contrast appear to be quite accurate and up to date.  This 3000 unit provides relatively good routing around Metro Atlanta but out in the country, routes are quite erratic and it gave us some pretty scenic (and out of the way) journeys as we followed it around rural North Georgia toward one or another destination.  The unit seems to want to take you pretty far out of your way so as to be able to travel via a major highway.  For the above reasons, we must rate the NavOne 3000 unit NOT ACCEPTABLE as of May 2005.  Cobra tells us that they DO plan a software and map update to correct some of the above problems.
6) TomTom icn750>  This is a pretty nicely performing unit with a display with a bit less contrast than the best but overall a good performer.  The unit is quite compact and well designed.   We rate the functionality and features of this unit as "good to very good"  We have a complete review of this model on our website in the FEATURES section.
7) Magellan RoadMate 760/800/860>  We rate these units as "very good performers".  They have a great display, pretty good user interface, great NavTeq maps (but you have to zoom in to 0.2 mile scale to have any view of residential streets and minor roads and this is not adjustable),  routing is excellent, address input easy and straightforward.  My overall conclusion at this point is that this unit is one of the best for people who want good quality routing (not perfect every time mind you) and good quality at a moderate price, this is a good line to check out.  We have reviews of these models on our website in the FEATURES section.
8) The Garmin QUEST/QUEST2 and NuVi 350/360/660 are really neat "shirt pocket" sized Car Navigators designed (we think) for the traveling salesman application.  The original Quest unit has limited memory for a car navigator (fixed 128megs USA/256 megs elsewhere). The Quest 2 and NuVi models come with all USA and Canada maps loaded plus about 140megs(Quest 2) and 700 megs (NuVi 350) for other user maps.   The color screen on the QUEST is bit small as car navigators go whereas the NuVi has a very nice and large screen. The 660 has an even larger screen and all these models have very readable screens in sunlight.  The later NuVi models have an edge in screen contrast and brightness.  Both Quest and NuVi are flat and will fit comfortably into a shirt pocket.  Overall, these units perform very well,  gives good routes, have voice output of directions and a rather full set of Car Navigator features. They also have fair performance as a pedestrian navigator.  Reviews of all these models can be found on our website's FEATURES page.
SELECTING A HANDHELD CAR NAVIGATOR> What features do you need?
The features you need in a handheld car navigator are essentially the same as for the above "True Car Navigators".  However, expect that the route generation and the map redraw speeds in the handheld models will be substantially slower than in the larger units with faster computers and more memory.  Expect the smaller screen to be more difficult (even impossible)  to read accurately at arm's length on the dash.  The "beep" alert tells you to consult the screen for the next turn but all the information about the turn comes from the screen display.  We judge these are a little bit less safe to use than the models with larger screens and voice command output.

SOME of the handheld units we consider most suitable for automobile navigation include (in no particular order):
Click on blue links above to visit our product review of a particular model.  
 Notes:(@) These units offer automatic address to address routing within the unit.
           (^) These units offer fixed map memory in the range of 19megs to 32 megs.
           (~) These units offer FIXED map memory size in the range of 50megs to 128megs.
           (&) These units have optional memory module, 8 megs to 256 megs available.
           (#) These units have available as option or standard, large memory to 2GB in form of fixed, CF or SD Memory plus a fast processor.
      (=)  These units have both a large map memory AND a CF or  SD  memory card.
      (M) These models come with preinstalled maps for all USA and Canada and operate right out of the box.
           (!)  These more expensive units have either a Hard Drive, CDROM (or DVD) drive for map storage and a fast processor.
           (+) These units have (or have as an option) an external antenna capability.
           (%)These units have a smaller screen than some other models listed.
           (>) We think these units are the best performers for Car Navigation purposes (though they may be quite limited in other applications).
(Note:  Joe and Jack do not permit vendors with unresolved customer complaints that we are aware of to advertise on our website.)
If you have questions, please post them to our FORUM at http://gpsinformation.info/forum.






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